Ground Cultivation
How the ground is cultivated is again an individual choice. Some favour one of the no dig methods, some prefer hand digging, others opt for rotovating, many do a combination of the three.
There are several methods of no dig cultivation and they can be used on open plots but probably work better in conjunction with raised beds; with this style of cultivation the ground is initially cleared of perennial weeds as far as possible, then covered with at least 15cm (6”) of well rotted compost or manure; although not essential some methods recommend overlaying the soil with cardboard or paper prior to spreading the compost; Once set up the ground is disturbed as little as possible and successive layers of well rotted organic material are spread as and when ground is clear. An ample and continuous supply of properly decomposed compost or manure is required and although by using shredded material, activators and insulation the process can be speeded up, many gardeners find it takes between 12 months and two years for compost to adequately rot and be in a fit state for use. Ground can be set up at any time of the year although new beds ought to be given a few weeks to settle before planting. Provided properly decomposed compost is used and the plot maintained weeds can largely be kept under control, a deep, very good soil structure can be achieved and excellent crops produced.
Conventional digging is favoured by many. These days few gardeners carry out double digging and forking over or single digging is normally adequate. It is worth remembering some of the reasons why hand digging it is done:-
Ground such as Ashbrook can be dug at most times of the year provided it is not too wet however to achieve the full benefit it is best done late autumn and early winter when the soil cools down and as day length shortens, weeds are then less likely to germinate and over wintering pests will be below ground. A “weather window”, normally occurs after the autumn rains have finished and lets the ground dry just sufficiently for it to be dug before the harsher winter weather arrives.
Taking out a narrow preliminary trench in September or October and moving the soil to the end of the plot then doing the main digging in December when the soil has cooled makes the job much easier. Compost and manure can be added except where root vegetables such as parsnips and carrots are the next crop to be grown, manure could cause them to fang. Stainless steel spades and forks with long handles that before insertion reach the ribcage make the job easier and allow their use as a lever and not as a means of converting you into a crane or bulldozer. If a full size blade is too large try border or graduate sized tools also keep a scraper handy, if necessary work off a timber board. Ideally the ground is left as rough as possible so the maximum surface area is exposed to the weather and predating birds. Do a bit at a time, done properly digging should not be arduous.
In springtime ground prepared this way only needs the top inch to dry sufficiently in order to drag a three prong, long handled cultivator through to give a good sowing or planting medium. Weed control during the growing season is then very easy by regular use of the dutch hoe.
Digging ground during the drying months of spring can risk losing winter moisture to evaporation.
There are several methods of no dig cultivation and they can be used on open plots but probably work better in conjunction with raised beds; with this style of cultivation the ground is initially cleared of perennial weeds as far as possible, then covered with at least 15cm (6”) of well rotted compost or manure; although not essential some methods recommend overlaying the soil with cardboard or paper prior to spreading the compost; Once set up the ground is disturbed as little as possible and successive layers of well rotted organic material are spread as and when ground is clear. An ample and continuous supply of properly decomposed compost or manure is required and although by using shredded material, activators and insulation the process can be speeded up, many gardeners find it takes between 12 months and two years for compost to adequately rot and be in a fit state for use. Ground can be set up at any time of the year although new beds ought to be given a few weeks to settle before planting. Provided properly decomposed compost is used and the plot maintained weeds can largely be kept under control, a deep, very good soil structure can be achieved and excellent crops produced.
Conventional digging is favoured by many. These days few gardeners carry out double digging and forking over or single digging is normally adequate. It is worth remembering some of the reasons why hand digging it is done:-
- To cleanse the ground as best as possible of perennial weeds such as bindweed and couch grass. I treat weeds such as chickweed, speedwell and groundsel etc as green manure and turned in; upside down and covered with 6” of soil they won’t grow.
- To open the ground to allow air into the soil and greater weather penetration by frost and wind, once the top dries in the spring a fine tilth for sowing and planting can be achieved.
- To place manure and compost where it provides the greatest benefit, in the root zone.
- To expose the eggs and pupae of overwintering soil borne pests to frost and predation by birds.
Ground such as Ashbrook can be dug at most times of the year provided it is not too wet however to achieve the full benefit it is best done late autumn and early winter when the soil cools down and as day length shortens, weeds are then less likely to germinate and over wintering pests will be below ground. A “weather window”, normally occurs after the autumn rains have finished and lets the ground dry just sufficiently for it to be dug before the harsher winter weather arrives.
Taking out a narrow preliminary trench in September or October and moving the soil to the end of the plot then doing the main digging in December when the soil has cooled makes the job much easier. Compost and manure can be added except where root vegetables such as parsnips and carrots are the next crop to be grown, manure could cause them to fang. Stainless steel spades and forks with long handles that before insertion reach the ribcage make the job easier and allow their use as a lever and not as a means of converting you into a crane or bulldozer. If a full size blade is too large try border or graduate sized tools also keep a scraper handy, if necessary work off a timber board. Ideally the ground is left as rough as possible so the maximum surface area is exposed to the weather and predating birds. Do a bit at a time, done properly digging should not be arduous.
In springtime ground prepared this way only needs the top inch to dry sufficiently in order to drag a three prong, long handled cultivator through to give a good sowing or planting medium. Weed control during the growing season is then very easy by regular use of the dutch hoe.
Digging ground during the drying months of spring can risk losing winter moisture to evaporation.
Allotments are large areas and some gardeners prefer to use a rotavator in order to get ground under control fairly quickly however to be effective their use does need the soil to be in a fairly dry condition. A fine tilth produced by rotavating in the autumn often results in panned ground and weeds by the spring. However springtime rotovating done when the soil is starting to dry out can result in all benefit of the previous winters rain being lost due to evaporation. If rain does not fall soon after springtime rotavating and the planting bed is dry extensive watering might be necessary in order to achieve worthwhile plant growth. Be careful of rotavating ground containing perennial weeds such as bindweed and couch grass as breaking their subsoil roots into cuttings can make the situation far worse. Again incorporating plenty of well rotted compost will greatly improve the soil.
With an open plot it is preferable to avoid walking directly on prepared ground, if possible work off a timber board particularly early in the planting year or if the ground is damp.
It is worth remembering the benefits of compost and manure which in themselves contain very little nutrient, most of the goodness having leached away in the decomposing process. Compost provides humus or fibre and is a first class soil conditioner that encourages strong root growth. It allows good drainage in wet weather yet acts as a sponge to retain moisture as the soil dries out. Dry roots can’t feed and by retaining moisture it means nutrients within the soil are in soluble form and therefore available to our plants. This combination of, moisture retention, good root growth and accessible nutrients results in a stronger plant, more resistant to pests and diseases and therefore a better crop. The soil at Ashbrook benefits enormously from the regular application of compost and manure and it is very helpful the Association now organises an ample supply of manure for our purchase. In addition to compost and manure most crops benefit from a dressing of general fertiliser such as blood fish and bone before planting.
Gardeners often debate the pros and cons of different methods of cultivation however provided they are done properly and at the right time most work well and the choice is yours. Do bear in mind the ground at Ashbrook can dry out very quickly in the spring; rather than method, it is far more important to rotate crops and to have ground in fertile condition, prepared and settled in time for planting so as to take full advantage of the relatively short growing season. Many pests and diseases can be avoided by planting early in the season although some crops might need protection against the weather. In addition many crops perform far better if grown as the days lengthen.
If your own available time and inclement weather prevent part of your plot being prepared in time it can be kept under reasonable control during the summer by planting potatoes. So long as the ground is not too panned it can often be planted with very little cultivation, if necessary a light forking along the rows will help as would a dressing of fertiliser such as blood fish and bone. A late main crop variety with blight resistance, weed suppressing foliage and needing a long season of growth such as Sarpo Mira would be ideal. Plant mid April, keep an eye out for late frost, earth up as they come through, preferably twice using a border or ladies spade so as to disturb weed growth during the growing season as much as possible and dig up your crop at the end of September. This should leave the ground reasonably clear for the following year.
With an open plot it is preferable to avoid walking directly on prepared ground, if possible work off a timber board particularly early in the planting year or if the ground is damp.
It is worth remembering the benefits of compost and manure which in themselves contain very little nutrient, most of the goodness having leached away in the decomposing process. Compost provides humus or fibre and is a first class soil conditioner that encourages strong root growth. It allows good drainage in wet weather yet acts as a sponge to retain moisture as the soil dries out. Dry roots can’t feed and by retaining moisture it means nutrients within the soil are in soluble form and therefore available to our plants. This combination of, moisture retention, good root growth and accessible nutrients results in a stronger plant, more resistant to pests and diseases and therefore a better crop. The soil at Ashbrook benefits enormously from the regular application of compost and manure and it is very helpful the Association now organises an ample supply of manure for our purchase. In addition to compost and manure most crops benefit from a dressing of general fertiliser such as blood fish and bone before planting.
Gardeners often debate the pros and cons of different methods of cultivation however provided they are done properly and at the right time most work well and the choice is yours. Do bear in mind the ground at Ashbrook can dry out very quickly in the spring; rather than method, it is far more important to rotate crops and to have ground in fertile condition, prepared and settled in time for planting so as to take full advantage of the relatively short growing season. Many pests and diseases can be avoided by planting early in the season although some crops might need protection against the weather. In addition many crops perform far better if grown as the days lengthen.
If your own available time and inclement weather prevent part of your plot being prepared in time it can be kept under reasonable control during the summer by planting potatoes. So long as the ground is not too panned it can often be planted with very little cultivation, if necessary a light forking along the rows will help as would a dressing of fertiliser such as blood fish and bone. A late main crop variety with blight resistance, weed suppressing foliage and needing a long season of growth such as Sarpo Mira would be ideal. Plant mid April, keep an eye out for late frost, earth up as they come through, preferably twice using a border or ladies spade so as to disturb weed growth during the growing season as much as possible and dig up your crop at the end of September. This should leave the ground reasonably clear for the following year.