John's advice after 25 years growing at Ashbrook allotments
Shallots
Shallots are a very worthwhile crop and particularly versatile in the kitchen. Being frost hardy they were traditionally planted on the shortest day and harvested on the longest day. Because they can be planted and harvested early they are very useful as a first planting when catch cropping.
If you have ground prepared, preferably alongside a path so walking over the ground can be avoided they can be planted from mid December to March. Trim the wispy tip without cutting into the bulb; this will reduce the chance of birds pulling them out of the ground. Plant about 23cm (9”) apart in rows 30cm (12”) apart with the tip just showing. These spacings allow space for growth and room to work a dutch hoe between the plants so they can be kept weed free during the growing season. Keep a regular check on newly planted bulbs as birds, particularly jackdaws frequently pull them out of the ground. If birds are really troublesome consider covering the rows with netting.
Alternatively, if the weather is not suitable or your ground is not ready for planting into the plot so early the bulbs can be started off during January and early February in 3” pots, grown on in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and planted out about middle of March.
Some years a few bolt (run to seed), however the remaining bulbs in the cluster are still perfectly useable.
About the end of May the bulbs start swelling and are normally ready for lifting by the end of June, ideally before they get too big otherwise they might compound. If the bulbs are to keep they need to be thoroughly ripened either in a greenhouse or outside and protected from any rain. Ripening takes about four weeks, then trim the tops, remove loose outer skin and store in mushroom boxes in a cool shed.
It is a good idea to set aside the very best bulbs, those having medium size, good shape and no sign of compounding for replanting next year; this should reduce the chances of importing white rot. This disease is becoming a real problem around the country particularly on allotments; it is often initially imported via infected onion or shallot bulbs then spread via tools and muddy boots, once in the ground it can take many years to eradicate. With an isolated outbreak any infected bulbs along with a spit of surrounding soil is best bagged up promptly and destroyed or disposed of. Drenching the hole with Jeyes Fluid seems to prevent it spreading further; infected bulbs should not be put on the compost heap. It is very noticeable that gardeners who retain their own clean shallot sets and who grow their onions from seed therefore not importing any sets have the least problem.
In many areas leek moth and allium leaf miner are causing significant damage.
Leek moth tends to mainly affect leeks, being a moth the larvae is a small caterpillar.
Allium leaf miner is far more destructive as it damages all alliums e.g. leeks, onions, shallots, chives, garlic and ornamentals, being a fly the larvae is a maggot.
The damage with both pests is similar, leaves appear slug damaged and the larvae found within the crop cause further damage often leading to botrytis.
The larvae overwinter as pupae either in the soil or within old crops and foliage and hatch out in the spring. Any crops found with these pests should not be put on compost heaps.
Leek moth is definitely at Ashbrook but to date I have not heard of it affecting our shallots. Allium leaf miner might not have arrived yet but we know is affecting crops nearby. The most effective solution for both pests will be to cover crops with environmesh from April until October.
Ground cleared of shallots by early July can be raked over; revitalised with fertiliser and replanted immediately with a catch crop. Shallots have umpteen uses in the kitchen, when pickled many consider they are superior to onions.
There are many different types of shallot and in recent years both Golden Gourmet and Red Gourmet have produced very good results, however most varieties also crop well at Ashbrook.
If you have ground prepared, preferably alongside a path so walking over the ground can be avoided they can be planted from mid December to March. Trim the wispy tip without cutting into the bulb; this will reduce the chance of birds pulling them out of the ground. Plant about 23cm (9”) apart in rows 30cm (12”) apart with the tip just showing. These spacings allow space for growth and room to work a dutch hoe between the plants so they can be kept weed free during the growing season. Keep a regular check on newly planted bulbs as birds, particularly jackdaws frequently pull them out of the ground. If birds are really troublesome consider covering the rows with netting.
Alternatively, if the weather is not suitable or your ground is not ready for planting into the plot so early the bulbs can be started off during January and early February in 3” pots, grown on in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and planted out about middle of March.
Some years a few bolt (run to seed), however the remaining bulbs in the cluster are still perfectly useable.
About the end of May the bulbs start swelling and are normally ready for lifting by the end of June, ideally before they get too big otherwise they might compound. If the bulbs are to keep they need to be thoroughly ripened either in a greenhouse or outside and protected from any rain. Ripening takes about four weeks, then trim the tops, remove loose outer skin and store in mushroom boxes in a cool shed.
It is a good idea to set aside the very best bulbs, those having medium size, good shape and no sign of compounding for replanting next year; this should reduce the chances of importing white rot. This disease is becoming a real problem around the country particularly on allotments; it is often initially imported via infected onion or shallot bulbs then spread via tools and muddy boots, once in the ground it can take many years to eradicate. With an isolated outbreak any infected bulbs along with a spit of surrounding soil is best bagged up promptly and destroyed or disposed of. Drenching the hole with Jeyes Fluid seems to prevent it spreading further; infected bulbs should not be put on the compost heap. It is very noticeable that gardeners who retain their own clean shallot sets and who grow their onions from seed therefore not importing any sets have the least problem.
In many areas leek moth and allium leaf miner are causing significant damage.
Leek moth tends to mainly affect leeks, being a moth the larvae is a small caterpillar.
Allium leaf miner is far more destructive as it damages all alliums e.g. leeks, onions, shallots, chives, garlic and ornamentals, being a fly the larvae is a maggot.
The damage with both pests is similar, leaves appear slug damaged and the larvae found within the crop cause further damage often leading to botrytis.
The larvae overwinter as pupae either in the soil or within old crops and foliage and hatch out in the spring. Any crops found with these pests should not be put on compost heaps.
Leek moth is definitely at Ashbrook but to date I have not heard of it affecting our shallots. Allium leaf miner might not have arrived yet but we know is affecting crops nearby. The most effective solution for both pests will be to cover crops with environmesh from April until October.
Ground cleared of shallots by early July can be raked over; revitalised with fertiliser and replanted immediately with a catch crop. Shallots have umpteen uses in the kitchen, when pickled many consider they are superior to onions.
There are many different types of shallot and in recent years both Golden Gourmet and Red Gourmet have produced very good results, however most varieties also crop well at Ashbrook.