Weeds continued
Certainly annual weeds can be kept under control by adopting the above methods, however perennial weeds will probably still appear and often need different treatment. Whenever digging or lifting crops such as potatoes any subsoil roots of couch grass and bindweed should be removed from your plot and disposed off, if dug in or composted they will regrow. Many of our allotment site paths contain couch grass which continually tries to invade even the best kept plots so it is worth spending a little more time when digging around the perimeters to remove as much sub soil couch root as possible.
Small, narrow growing beds surrounded by grass paths are the most difficult to keep clear of couch, larger growing areas are much easier. If weed to paths within your plot are troublesome it might be worth letting them develop to a point where they can be treated with a glysophate weed killer then using bark chippings or Mypex as a suppressant. Obviously if doing this avoid damaging the grass paths bordering your plot. Do avoid trying to pull up or tear off couch and bindweed, the top will snap off leaving the subsoil roots intact, in effect the weed will be root pruned and then grow with even greater vigour.
For a plot that is heavily infested with couch grass or bindweed hoeing is probably futile, there are however three effective ways it can be cleared but they take time.
1) The first will take a full growing season. About mid April plant a blight resistant main crop potato with heavy weed suppressing foliage and long season of growth such as Sarpo Mira. Avoid first or second early potatoes, their growing period is too short, also avoid blight prone main crop varieties, they won’t survive and smother the ground for long enough. If your ground is compacted loosen or dig along the row and apply some fertiliser such as blood fish and bone before planting. Keep the plants well earthed up, do it at least twice probably with a small spade to disturb weed growth as much as possible.
Lift the crop at the end of September, at the same time remove any weed e.g. couch and bindweed that has survived. By the end of September perennial weed growth will slow down however the soil is still be warm and fast growing annuals such as chickweed and groundsel will probably reappear.
If possible I would then dig the ground over again when in good condition between November and January, watch for a weather window, dig in annuals and clear any remaining perennial weed that has survived; your ground should then be clean, can be left to weather and will be ready for spring planting. Regular weed control with a hoe is then easy. The beauty of this method is that you clean your ground and get a crop all in the same year. Any small areas of perennial weed that reappears can be cleared by very local spot weeding.
2) A second, option is to apply a glysophate based weed killer such as Roundup. This might sound brutal but in the long run is often the most effective way of clearing a whole or part plot that is infested with couch grass or bindweed, if done properly it should be a once only application. Obviously follow the manufactures instructions but also consider the following:-
Small, narrow growing beds surrounded by grass paths are the most difficult to keep clear of couch, larger growing areas are much easier. If weed to paths within your plot are troublesome it might be worth letting them develop to a point where they can be treated with a glysophate weed killer then using bark chippings or Mypex as a suppressant. Obviously if doing this avoid damaging the grass paths bordering your plot. Do avoid trying to pull up or tear off couch and bindweed, the top will snap off leaving the subsoil roots intact, in effect the weed will be root pruned and then grow with even greater vigour.
For a plot that is heavily infested with couch grass or bindweed hoeing is probably futile, there are however three effective ways it can be cleared but they take time.
1) The first will take a full growing season. About mid April plant a blight resistant main crop potato with heavy weed suppressing foliage and long season of growth such as Sarpo Mira. Avoid first or second early potatoes, their growing period is too short, also avoid blight prone main crop varieties, they won’t survive and smother the ground for long enough. If your ground is compacted loosen or dig along the row and apply some fertiliser such as blood fish and bone before planting. Keep the plants well earthed up, do it at least twice probably with a small spade to disturb weed growth as much as possible.
Lift the crop at the end of September, at the same time remove any weed e.g. couch and bindweed that has survived. By the end of September perennial weed growth will slow down however the soil is still be warm and fast growing annuals such as chickweed and groundsel will probably reappear.
If possible I would then dig the ground over again when in good condition between November and January, watch for a weather window, dig in annuals and clear any remaining perennial weed that has survived; your ground should then be clean, can be left to weather and will be ready for spring planting. Regular weed control with a hoe is then easy. The beauty of this method is that you clean your ground and get a crop all in the same year. Any small areas of perennial weed that reappears can be cleared by very local spot weeding.
2) A second, option is to apply a glysophate based weed killer such as Roundup. This might sound brutal but in the long run is often the most effective way of clearing a whole or part plot that is infested with couch grass or bindweed, if done properly it should be a once only application. Obviously follow the manufactures instructions but also consider the following:-
- Glysophate weed killers are best applied during the main growing season when weeds are sufficiently developed but still in vegetative condition, i.e. between April and about mid September. Couch grass should be treatable by May. Bindweed does not appear till later and should be allowed to grow out of and across the ground so there is plenty of receptive leaf area, this might not be until July. Glysophate applied to bare earth is wasted and ineffective; it should be applied to growing leaf surface.
- Avoid rotovating weed infested ground beforehand, this will only exacerbate the situation by cutting up sub soil roots and creating many more cuttings of weeds that will quickly reroot and create an even bigger problem.
- Avoid strimming or cutting off any weed first, the glysophate should be applied to as large a surface area of soft green foliage as possible. If the plot is strimmed first you will have either no live foliage or what remains will be tough and less absorbent.
- For best effect apply to dry foliage on a still evening when no wind or rain is forecast otherwise the solution could drift, evaporate too quickly or be washed off.
- Wear wellington boots, I would also don latex gloves, just in case.
- Have sufficient buckets or watering cans of clean water at one end of the plot for topping up, final rinsing and cleaning.
- Be careful when working near plants you wish to save, better still leave the area to be treated vacant of crops.
- Take care there is no spillage on the perimeter grass paths, work only on your plot.
- Some manufacturers suggest spray application but this risks wind drift. I prefer a watering can fitted with a rose or spreader bar that is marked and kept specifically for weed killer. Before starting check the nozzle holes are clear and there is no dust or debris in the can that might cause blockage.
- Mix the solution on your plot in your marked can to the manufacturer's instructions. Start at one end and work with great care moving slowly and methodically until all weed foliage on your plot has been treated.
- Avoid walking over wet treated areas and then onto the grass paths, the evidence of your footsteps will show a week or two later.
- When finished use clean water to rinse equipment and boots. Under no circumstances rinse or clean your watering can or any other equipment in the Societies water tanks.
- Dispose of gloves and containers safely.
- Treatment will probably take three to four weeks to be effective.
continued...