Weeds continued
3) A third option is a bit of both the first two and is what I did.
My first plot at Ashbrook was relatively weed free but only five poles and not large enough for our needs. I therefore moved to my current 10 pole plot. Initially I dug about six small trial holes so as to learn something about the soil before starting any cultivation and discovered the whole plot was heavily infested with both hedge and field bindweed. From previous experience with this weed I had found trying to remove it with a fork was equivalent to root pruning resulting in the plant growing even more vigorously and as the roots often extend over six feet deep is virtually impossible to dig out so I tried a different approach.
First the plot was autumn dug and bindweed roots in the top spit were removed, the far deeper roots however remained.
Then I divided the plot into four quarters and over the next four years rotated first 1) brassicas, then 2) root crops (carrots, beetroot and parsnips) plus onions, runner beans and courgettes, then 3) potatoes, then 4) shallots and legumes (peas and broad beans).
The quarters with brassicas and roots gave little opportunity for dealing with bindweed other than occasional spot treatment with glysophate.
However the quarter with potatoes meant that when earthing and lifting the crop more bindweed roots could be removed thus weakening the weed to that quarter. However the quarter with shallots, peas and broad beans was easy. These crops are usually frost hardy, can be planted early, cropped late June and then cleared from the ground in early July. Whilst my crops were growing annual weeds were hoed off, bindweed did not appear until June and July and was allowed to trail extensively over the soil surface. Once the legumes and shallots were cleared no further catch crops were planted to that area, the bindweed continued to appear and was then easy to spot weed with glysophate and by the end of September that quarter was clear. With rotation another quarter would be with cleared the following year and so on. Occasionally spot weeding in late summer is sometimes still done. Overall I found this method slow but very effective.
Sometimes plot holders cover weed infested ground with black polythene or fabric, this is rarely effective as:-
Beds that have permanent or semi permanent plantings such as fruit and asparagus etc need particular attention. Obviously ensure the ground where such crops are to be grown is clear of perennial weeds before planting then be diligent about keeping them weed free otherwise they get over run by couch or bindweed which then encroaches further into your plot
Certainly aim to deal with weeds early; hoeing is best done in dry weather when weeds are at the seedling stage. Do avoid letting them become mature and spreading seed in particular weeds such as groundsel, thistle and dandelion. Whether you compost weeds is up to you. Certainly bindweed and couch grass should not go on the compost heap where it will reroot and grow, mine go into a bucket or box to dry out before going on a bonfire. I put most other weeds on the compost heap, generally before they seed and have no problem with subsequent reseeding.
Running an allotment requires adequate preparation also doing the right thing at the right time. If lack of time currently prevents you keeping on top of your current plot it might be worth enquiring about reducing to one of more manageable size. After all a smaller plot well managed is preferable to a large one that appears neglected.
My first plot at Ashbrook was relatively weed free but only five poles and not large enough for our needs. I therefore moved to my current 10 pole plot. Initially I dug about six small trial holes so as to learn something about the soil before starting any cultivation and discovered the whole plot was heavily infested with both hedge and field bindweed. From previous experience with this weed I had found trying to remove it with a fork was equivalent to root pruning resulting in the plant growing even more vigorously and as the roots often extend over six feet deep is virtually impossible to dig out so I tried a different approach.
First the plot was autumn dug and bindweed roots in the top spit were removed, the far deeper roots however remained.
Then I divided the plot into four quarters and over the next four years rotated first 1) brassicas, then 2) root crops (carrots, beetroot and parsnips) plus onions, runner beans and courgettes, then 3) potatoes, then 4) shallots and legumes (peas and broad beans).
The quarters with brassicas and roots gave little opportunity for dealing with bindweed other than occasional spot treatment with glysophate.
However the quarter with potatoes meant that when earthing and lifting the crop more bindweed roots could be removed thus weakening the weed to that quarter. However the quarter with shallots, peas and broad beans was easy. These crops are usually frost hardy, can be planted early, cropped late June and then cleared from the ground in early July. Whilst my crops were growing annual weeds were hoed off, bindweed did not appear until June and July and was allowed to trail extensively over the soil surface. Once the legumes and shallots were cleared no further catch crops were planted to that area, the bindweed continued to appear and was then easy to spot weed with glysophate and by the end of September that quarter was clear. With rotation another quarter would be with cleared the following year and so on. Occasionally spot weeding in late summer is sometimes still done. Overall I found this method slow but very effective.
Sometimes plot holders cover weed infested ground with black polythene or fabric, this is rarely effective as:-
- Only one generation of annual weeds is suppressed.
- Perennial subsoil weeds such as couch grass and bindweed often thrive in the warm dark environment below.
- Be aware modern carpet material does not rot and the Society asks you not to use them.
Beds that have permanent or semi permanent plantings such as fruit and asparagus etc need particular attention. Obviously ensure the ground where such crops are to be grown is clear of perennial weeds before planting then be diligent about keeping them weed free otherwise they get over run by couch or bindweed which then encroaches further into your plot
Certainly aim to deal with weeds early; hoeing is best done in dry weather when weeds are at the seedling stage. Do avoid letting them become mature and spreading seed in particular weeds such as groundsel, thistle and dandelion. Whether you compost weeds is up to you. Certainly bindweed and couch grass should not go on the compost heap where it will reroot and grow, mine go into a bucket or box to dry out before going on a bonfire. I put most other weeds on the compost heap, generally before they seed and have no problem with subsequent reseeding.
Running an allotment requires adequate preparation also doing the right thing at the right time. If lack of time currently prevents you keeping on top of your current plot it might be worth enquiring about reducing to one of more manageable size. After all a smaller plot well managed is preferable to a large one that appears neglected.